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What is the best way to maintain a handpiece?

It's one of the most common questions we hear from dental professionals across the country. It is the question we love to discuss because after our many years of specializing in handpiece repair, we definitely need to express the importance of proper maintenance. The cleaning and maintenance process can be confusing, but when performed properly, regular maintenance can extend the life of your handpieces exponentially and ultimately save your practice a lot of time and money.

This is what we suggest:

  1. High-Speeds

    Before explaining handpiece maintenance, it is important for you to understand the operation of a high-speed handpiece. When a highspeed handpiece is running, it exhausts air from the top and bottom of the cutting head. When the user lifts off the rheostat (foot peddle), the momentum of the handpiece is reversed. When the handpiece shuts down, the turbine aspirates debris including tooth dust, amalgam and other fine particles into the head of the handpiece. It is just as if the particulate matter becomes a fine material with similarities to that of sand. And we have all heard the affects of a sand blasting procedure. You can imagine how dirty a handpiece turbine can get if this debris is not flushed out of the head after each use and prior to autoclaving. Unless it is removed, the debris can potentially bake around the turbine and it parts resulting in premature failure when put into use.

    High-speed Infection Control

    High-speed handpieces need to be cleaned and lubricated between every patient. Begin by cleaning the outer shell of the handpiece using a mild soap and water or alcohol. Never use any disinfectants, because any petroleum based residue not removed can compromise the function of a turbine, autochuck, retainers, and bearings.

    Remove the bur, (which should be sterilized separately) you should cover the head of the handpiece with a spray guard or paper towel, and then spray the handpiece with a high-grade synthetic lubricant using the appropriate applicator. Insert the nozzle into the swivel backend or the back of a 2/4/5-hole handpiece.

    Next, insert a bur and run the handpiece on an air station or handpiece purging station for 10 to 20 seconds (once normal speed {approx. 400K RPM} is reached) to flush the debris out of the turbine before autoclaving. Repeat these steps as necessary until the lubricant runs clear. (If you are using lube-free handpieces, you can skip the lubricant and the purge station.) Never run a manual/standard handpiece on the purge station without a bur installed.

    Finally, remove the bur and insert the handpiece into a bag and sterilize it. If you are using half paper and half plastic bags, remember to put the paper side up for easy evaporation. Never use dry heat and always remember to wait until the handpiece has gone through the complete drying cycle. (The handpiece must then be immediately removed from this environment to prevent excessive exposure and overheating.) After lubing an autochuck it is recommended to put a handpiece on your purge station or run it without a bur in the chuck so that any loose debris can be flushed out. Do not do this with the manual chucks as they can back out of the spindle and jam in the cap.

  2. Low-Speeds, Attachments and Scalers

    For low-speed handpieces, attachments and air scalers, you want to use lubricant in an eye dropper once or twice a week or as recommended by the manufacturer. Put a drop of lube on any direction (forward and reverse) or lock collars--any points where the handpiece can swivel or turn 360 degrees. We recommend putting lube on all connection threads as well.

    For swivel-type motors, you'll need to use an E-type or swivel-type nozzle adapter. When applying the lubricant into a 2/4/5-hole handpiece with an eye dropper, use the drive air tube only.

    Just remember these four steps:

    1. clean
    2. lubricate
    3. run
    4. sterilize